How to get here, and what to do while you're in town
Landing, moving around, and what December feels like here
Our draft list — we'll keep adding as we argue about it
The city's landmark — white marble, huge gardens, best at golden hour. The museum inside is genuinely good.
Must seeGo to Prinsep Ghat at sunset for the river, the boats and the light. Howrah Bridge is best seen from the water.
SunsetThe idol-makers' quarter — narrow lanes full of artisans sculpting clay deities by hand. Unlike anywhere else in India.
Our favouriteThe world's largest second-hand book market. Stop at Indian Coffee House for adda and terrible-but-essential coffee.
Two riverside temples, best done together by ferry. Peaceful, spiritual, and a proper break from the city noise.
Half dayKathi rolls at Nizam's, biryani at Arsalan, Bengali thali at 6 Ballygunge Place, and rosogolla from Balaram Mullick.
Non-negotiableFor sarees, kurtas, jewellery and general chaos. Bargain — the first price is never the price.
Tagore's university town, about three hours away. Art, craft markets and a completely different pace.
Full dayTell me what else belongs here and I'll add it — especially the places you two actually love.